This is the real birthplace of Kabbalah. Here, the highest city in Israel, with winding narrow streets and alleyways perched atop a mountain with a panoramic vista of the mountains. The hills looked, at sunset like the Great Smoky Mountains in Tennessee. We were here only for the afternoon. It was crowded here- many tour busses stopped to give folks an opportunity to poke around in so many art shops and galleries. The Safed Candle Factory is here, too. Such beautiful candles for Shabbat, for Havdalah, for Chunakah.

Interesting place...it feels mystical. We visited the synagogue of Isaac Luria. We met people in the street dancing and encouraging us to chant the name of Reb Nachman of Bratslav. We even saw grafitti to this effect. Competing with this were posters and other signs with the picture of Reb Menachem Schneerson, the Lubavitcher rebbe from New York. There were people here referring to him (who has been dead for years now) as ha melech ha moshiach (the king and messiah). All of this struck me as idolatrous and dangerously devisive, not to mention just plain old shocking to us. We saw a young man blissfully dancing in the streets and collecting tzedaka (charity) for hungry children. He was clapping and singing jubilantly and shouted after us, "I'm from Ohio!" We asked, "Why are you here?" And he clapped along singing, "It's better in Israel." Such a smile he had. Oh my goodness, I bet shabbat here is really something to see. Must return to Sv'at. Must.  

We didn't really buy anything here. We gave some charity and wandered through the markets taking it all in. I did have a great cup of coffee (not always readily available in Israel was our experience) at a little shop at the far end of the old village near where the buses were parked. There were just too many people shopping that day...a convergence of tour buses. I can't take the crowds. I would, however, very much like to spend a night or two in this town...pray more there...get a feel for it. It is so beautiful and there is "something" of great energy in these alleyways. I felt as though I could have made music here...drumming, with guitar and even voice (the time I had the worse laryngitis on my life.) Here, I wanted to sing. When we return, G-d willing in 2009....we WILL stay here a few days and take it all in. I have a feeling that something special is afoot here after dark, when the stars are up and the busses gone and the singing begins.

Oh...and there was an interesting man making a Yemeni dish that looked a little like pizza. He made it on what looked like a flatter wok than we would use normally..gently rounded at the top. Everything fresh. It smelled fantastic. Next time, I will try it. I did buy some Yemeni seasoning to cook with. Not sure what to do with it. I rubbed it on Mahi-Mahi tonight. Not bad. But, I bet there's a better way/use to is. Like the hyysop dip for bread. Was fascinated with the street vendors, especially the bread bakers..